Today’s theme is The Scream because it unites all of our activities. First we went to the Akershus Fortress complex. There Barb almost screamed when one of the palace guards started his guard duty by marching straight at her and she realized she’d wandered into an area vaguely marked “Do not enter” in Norwegian. Then we went to the Oslo Opera House where lots of sopranos “scream” impressively in their nightly performances. Next up, we muscled past huge groups of Japanese tourists to get up close to the most famous painting in Norway — Edvard Munch’s “The Scream“. Lastly, due to the excessive heat, we went back to Drobak for a swim and screamed as we hit the cold water!
At right is the guard from Akershus as he patrolled the area where I was standing.
He actually didn’t seem to be too concerned by my “infiltration” of their small grassy hill which contained a cannon pointed at a large shrub.
While we explored the rest of the grounds of the Akershus Fortress, I used a mobile app to learn about the sights. The poor translations made the descriptions particularly funny since we sometimes couldn’t even tell what they meant. For example:
“The tower completed in 1559 was originally called ‘The New Prevention Prevention’. “
“In 1628 the captain was taken away so that one could easily shoot the enemy. This proved to be a bad idea in the Norwegian climate. The roof was eroded and the crumb stored in the tower became wet.”
“One reputation says that in the nights could see a headless disguised figure walking around.” [We were surprised that being headless wasn’t enough of a disguise.]
Watched from afar by the guard, Megan sat for a while in a shady area of the fortress and made a sketch of a nearby arched gate.
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Next we went to the Oslo Opera House (at left below). Its architecture is interesting because two sides are ramps which the public is free to walk up in order to get to the roof, where you can also walk around and get a view of the harbor. So of course we had to do it! You can see a reflection of Leon and Megan as they walk up the ramp. You can also see the reflection of a big cruise ship coming into the harbor.
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Our next stop was the Oslo National Gallery. While it is not a large collection and focuses more on works by Norwegian artists, they also have works by artists such as Picasso, Gauguin, Degas, Berthe Morisot, a self-portrait by Van Gogh, some Greco-Roman sculptures, an Artemisia Gentileschi, some Dutch artists, the German artist Lucas Cranach, etc… But their biggest claim to fame is Munch’s The Scream, as well as a number of his most prominent other works. Side note: There is another museum in Oslo which is devoted exclusively to Munch (called the Munch Museum) and the first FAQ on their website is: “Q: We do NOT have The Scream. A: It is at the National Gallery.” which isn’t even a question but I guess they were sick of hearing the question.
Below is a picture by a Norwegian artist done in the late 1800s which reminded me of the pictures of my grandfather’s parents’s farm. The two pictures on the right are both famous Munch works — The Sick Child (his sister who died) and The Dance of Life showing the stages of a woman’s life in Munch’s opinion: Youth, Love, Melancholy. Overall, based on his pictures you can tell he was rather a depressed fellow.
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After lunch we were in time to see the changing of the guards at the Royal Palace. First they march up the road — 4 mounted police, followed by a ~30 piece marching band, followed by about 16 guards. Then they proceed to do a number of ceremonial movements that seem to have no point, play some more songs and then rotate in the new guards for the old guards. In all, it took about 40 minutes and was fun to watch. Unlike at Buckingham Palace where you watch from behind a large gate, here they let you walk around the whole courtyard and they just have these stern looking fellows in green who prevent the crowd from getting too close.
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It was 87 degrees out there today so even though we walked much further yesterday, we were hotter today just from standing in the sun and watching the changing of the guard.
So we went back to the beach at Drobak where we’d waded the first day in order to swim for real. There was a nice breeze by the shore and the cold water was refreshing, but the highlight was this jelly fish — it was fun to look at but evidently their sting is quite bad so it made us a bit worried to swim too aggressively!