A Whirlwind Tour through Oslo Museums

On Wednesday we decided to get an Oslo Pass. This allows you one day access to all the museums in town plus most public transportation. So we packed in a lot! We started with the Viking Ship Museum. It was interesting to hear that the reason these preserved so well is that after being used for sailing, they were then used to bury important dignitaries in burial mounds.

Our next stop, The Norwegian Folk Museum, was declared by Megan to be “the best museum she ever visited”. They have taken many old buildings built 150-500 years ago from around Norway and moved them here. It is mostly houses and farm buildings, although there is one traditional stavkirke (church). Many of them are open so that you can go inside and see the traditional furnishings. There are also people in traditional dress correlating to the age of the buildings who answer questions about the culture of their time. One guy told us about the festive porridges cooked for special occasions (instead of regular porridge made from oats and water, they would add meat plus sour cream saved up especially for the festive porridge).

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Next we were off to see the Polar Ship Fram Museum (named Best Museum in Oslo on TripAdvisor!). Indeed it was impressive — allowing us to explore the deck and living quarters of Fram, the first ship designed to safely be frozen while sailing in Arctic Ice. The squeezing ice pushes the ship upwards instead of crushing it. It also had replaceable rudders so that when the freezing ice broke them off, new ones could be inserted when the water thawed. The Fram and its crew spent three entire years drifting in/on Arctic ice in the early 1900s as a study of how polar ice fields shift. The museum also contained the Gjoa (the ship that Roald Amundsen captained to be the first to cross the Northwest Passage). Below – Megan and Roald on the Fram’s upper deck, and a shot of the Gjoa.

Nextdoor was the Kon-Tiki Museum. We thought it was really cool to see the primitive raft used by Thor Heyerdahl to cross from Peru to the Polynesian Islands in 1947. We’d all recently read the book and found it quite thrilling. Now after hearing about the Fram and Roald Amundsen’s adventures, I want to read more about that as well.

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Our last museum stop of the day was the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art which was a bit of a disappointment since many of the works of interest to me were on loan to other museums. Plus the ones on display were disproportionately disturbing! In particular, there was one which could have been fun but wasn’t … you start by seeing 2 large irregular holes in walls that look like a cartoon where someone afraid runs straight through a wall (picture below at left). Then you get to the other side of the walls and see lying on the floor what created the holes: it was the walking Kool-Aid pitcher (from old 1980s TV ads) who was running while carrying Roger Rabbit and Wile E. Coyote and then for some reason had konked out there on the floor. The disturbing part was that also lying there was the man who’d been inside the Kool-Aid pitcher and he was life-size, realistic, hairy and totally naked. Just crossing the border from “fun” to “Did I really have to see that?” The same artist did the work shown below on the right which Megan took one look at and said, “That looks like bird poop on a wall” before Leon read the title and it was from the artist’s “Bird Shit Series”, this one was titled something like “View of 34th Street”.

Norway – The Journey Begins

After landing at 10:45pm on the July 23rd, our first full day in Norway was Leon’s birthday. Norway has been having record high temperatures this summer and the house was super stuffy inside when we arrived. However by opening the windows, we managed to get it to a somewhat tolerable sleeping temperature by 1:15am or so. Megan and I woke up wide awake at 4:30am. Leon managed to sleep until 6am.

We decided to take it easy the first day by going to a small scenic coast town (Drobak, a 20 minute drive from our place) and then taking the Drobak-Oslo ferry into Oslo after lunch. Evidently one of the reasons people come to Drobak is that it purports to be the birthplace of Santa Claus.

 

It’s also known for its well-preserved wooden buildings from the 1850s and its beautiful view of the Oslofjord.

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Before catching the fairy, we had a celebratory birthday cake for Leon at a cute bakery. It was a layered white cake with strawberries and blueberries that tasted a lot like strawberry shortcake. The other interesting food item that we were very amused to see the first day in Norway was the fabled “bacon wrapped hot dog”. While researching Norway, I had read a blog on traveling on a budget in Norway – the blogger advised that the most reliable strategy was to dine exclusively on bacon-wrapped hot dogs which are available at almost all gas stations. We found them in Drobak without even going to a gas station. They are truly popular here! The bacon wrapped dog is the one in back.

 

Oslofjord and an Oslo Walking Tour

The 1.5 hour ferry to Oslo was really scenic, passing by the rocky forested coastline and several small islands. Here and there small clusters of brightly painted houses dotted the hillsides and in a few spots, tiny houses were perched right above the water.

In Oslo, we did Rick Steve’s recommended downtown walking tour and added a few variations of our own when we saw cool things. One of the most memorable sights was the Radhus (City Hall) — a large stark modernist building from the 1950s filled with huge murals, modern chandeliers, a Munch painting and a number of large scale woodcuttings of Norse mythology.

Several downtown city streets had inflated bears floating in them!

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After the walking tour we took the bus back to Drobak and waded around for a while in the Oslofjord. The water seemed about the same temperature as in Santa Barbara, possibly slightly chillier. The picture of the feet is showing Leon on some steps that lead down to a mossy area and we thought the colors were cool.