Watching the Ferries

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur latest rental is in the fjord town of Stranda. The apartment is on the 3rd floor overlooking the fjord, with the ferry terminal one block to the left. As a consequence, we are able to look out the patio window and see the ferries come in. In fact we are close enough to count the cars coming on and off. The ferry starts at 6 and goes until 11, with two ferries going simultaneously at peak hours. It takes them about 10 minutes to do the crossing which is right on the other side of the fjord directly opposite our window. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo this morning at 6:30 the ferry brought 6 cars and one delivery truck across. That’s the only counting I’ve done so far! Here is a shot from last evening showing the ferry heading out towards the other side. And below is one taken this morning of Megan reading on the balcony.

 

 

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Taking the Troll’s Road (Trollstigen)

Before we left the farmhouse this morning, Leon ventured out to the backyard to take a few more pictures of the mountains and here is what he saw in the chicken coop:

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Both male peacocks were in full-on display mode! The one whose feathers are less colorful is facing away, they are both blue and green when facing you. While proudly displaying their feathers, they also did an exaggerated butt wiggle and twitch. It was quite a spectacle but the females seemed to be unimpressed!

img_20180730_085620After breakfast, we took the scenic route, called Trollstigen or The Troll’s Road, over the mountains. The road is an impressive engineering feat that was originally built in the 1930s. You traverse 11 hairpin turns as the road climbs to the top of the mountain pass. Along the way you cross a bridge over a waterfall. We also saw two sheep sitting lazily on the side of the road halfway up!

At the top of the pass is a visitor’s center where they have another viewing platform set up as a cantilever so that you go out for the view as if you are on a diving board. So that makes 2 “diving board style” viewpoints in 2 days for us!

After the peak, it was a more gradual descent on the other side, passing several waterfalls and farms. After driving a while, we stopped for coffee at a cafe with dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows facing the Gudbrandsjuvet waterfall, so named because a guy named Gudbrand supposedly jumped over it while eloping with his kidnapped bride. “Juvet” means jump. Honestly, it seems unlikely anyone ever jumped over this thing but who knows!

Then we took a car ferry to our next destination, Stranda, a town on the edge of the Storfjord. Here is the view from the ferry as we headed towards Stranda.

Once in Stranda we enjoyed the water view from our rental apartment for a while, then did a leisurely walk by a stream before dinner.

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This time the view took effort …

P7290013.jpgAfter yesterday’s post about hiking to a great view that took very little effort, we paid our dues with plenty of effort today! We climbed the most popular hike in Åndalsnes. It is called the Rampestreken viewpoint hike. After reaching Rampestreken we went a bit further to make it to the top of Mount Nesaksla. Like yesterday, it was a steep hike, but instead of being done after 20 minutes like yesterday, it took about 1.5 hours of steep climbing to get to the top, which was 708 meters. Here are Leon and Megan climbing one stretch of the hike which is composed of rock steps placed by Nepalese Sherpas. We don’t know why they had Sherpas do it, but presumably they were quite good at it. I liked the stone steps because the alternative was usually climbing over twisty exposed tree roots which were a lot less even than the steps.

At the viewpoint, there is a metal walkway that extends out from the mountain sort of like a diving board so that you can walk out past the edge of the mountain and get a larger view.

Once you get to the top of the mountain, the views are even more sweeping. The excitement of the viewing platform is mostly the fact that you are out almost floating in space.

On the way down, Megan and Leon were ok but the soles of my feet were feeling really achy after walking the steep downhill over tree roots for so long. I was sure happy to reach flat ground again! However, it was a great hike well worth it for the views.

Tomorrow we are going to be leaving the farmhouse and driving a bit south to the Geirangerfjord area.

Did you know that peacocks can fly?

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Fjord Raspberries

Today we woke up to weather forecasts of rain. It had also rained a bit during the night. There isn’t much open here on Sundays, but luckily we’d stocked up on bread, cheese, salami, fruit, coffee and juice for breakfast.

At 8am it wasn’t raining but there were a lot of clouds. We were worried about trying a hike and getting caught in bad weather so we went for an hour long drive up the fjord. Along the way we pulled to the side of the road at a random spot in order to take a picture and Leon noticed wild raspberries! Yum!

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Continuing up the road after munching on berries, we found that every single bit of the road had a great view in one direction or another. After about 20 km we reached a small town called Rødven which has a stavkirke and a regular kirke, side by side.

On the way back to the house the weather was still clear. You could see the glacial valley and the small village of Isfjorden clearly over the water (on the left side below — that’s where our AirBnB is).

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img_20180729_150623We were luckily at home when the big rainstorm hit. We sat it out in comfort. In the afternoon the weather cleared up and that’s we had some unusual animal excitement! First we heard a lot of squawking, including the very loud noises that peacocks make. Suddenly we saw a large bird flying through the air at a low altitude. It was a female peacock who somehow got out of the coop in the barn. It crashed into the tree in front of our porch. Once caught up in the trees branches it flailed around flapping for several seconds until it suddenly seemed to give up and just fell to the ground from about 20 feet up. We were all a bit worried that it was injured and so we rushed over. So did the friendly farm cat and the fluffy white dog that had scared it out of the coop in the first place. Luckily the peacock was just in shock for a while and perhaps embarrassed at her terrible flying and tree-landing skills, but seemed otherwise ok after a couple minutes. A brave neighbor picked it up and carried it back to the barn!

So now we have answered the blog question of the day! Yes peacocks can fly but not very high and not very well. I’ll make a separate posting about our afternoon hike.

 

 

 

 

 

Big views at LitleFjellet

This is the second blog entry related to Saturday, July 28. After settling in at the house, we went on a short but steep hike to the top of a peak called LitleFjellet. It is only a 0.8 km hike although it is entirely clambering uphill. It took about 20 minutes (and a fair bit of huffing and puffing for me) to get to the top. After reaching the top, Leon said, “Getting here was so easy it almost feels like you’re cheating.” Later we found a quote online describing the hike that says the same thing a bit more eloquently 🙂

“Never has a human achieved so much by putting so little effort into it.” – Mountaineer and philosopher Arne Næss senior on his visit to Litlefjellet

Looking down in one direction you could see the harbor of Åndalsnes and the fjord, in another you could see the ragged edge of the top of the Trollsteigen (Troll’s wall) and in the direction we’d come from were more mountains, hardly less dramatic. The pictures of the view from the top do it more justice than if I try to describe it.

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At the top the wind was really strong, making it chilly, and it started to rain. Not only did we not bring jackets since it had been 85+ degrees at the house, we were also quite worried about doing the steep rocky/muddy descent in the rain. Luckily it only rained about 5 minutes. Here is a shot of Megan on a particularly steep part of the descent.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter dinner we drove to the Åndalsnes harbor to see the early part of the sunset (9:45pm, below). Then we came back to the farmhouse and noticed that what we thought was just a chicken coop is actually also the coop of 2-3 peacocks! So that’s what was making all the noisy squawks we’d been hearing earlier! Luckily they quieted down at night even though it was still light out.

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Off to Isfjorden

img_20180728_0749581We woke up to another sunny day. Here is Leon on the hotel porch getting some work done before breakfast. Breakfast was a smorgasbord of cereal, cheese, deli meats, bacon, eggs, bread, crackers, some pickled vegetables and yogurt.

I was even a sport and tried out some of the very popular Norwegian brunøst (brown cheese) even after Leon told me he had some in the past and that it was awful. I decided it wasn’t awful but I wouldn’t purposely eat it again. On the plate below, the brunøst is the stuff on the piece of cracker nearest to the coffee.

Our next 2 nights will be in Isfjorden, a small village north of the Geirangerfjord region. Along the way we made a stop at a viewing destination called Snøhatta Viewpoint. Snøhatta is the 2nd largest mountain in Norway and they built a unique viewing room to protect people from the strong winds common in this area. It is about the size of a semi trailer. One side is solid plate glass windows and the other side is sculpted wood with lots of curves and places to sit and enjoy the view.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOnce in Isfjorden we headed to the AirBnB which is pretty idyllic, a farmhouse with views of mountains in almost every direction. This is the view from the front yard. There is a picnic table and a small deck where I think we will sit and eat breakfast tomorrow. But after we settled in at the AirBnB we went on one more hike before dinner. I’ll write about that tomorrow in the next blog since it is getting late here. By the way guess what time the sunrise and sunset are here: sunrise is 4:40 am and sunset is 10:45pm!! Even between those hours though it still is a bit light outside, sort of like twilight lasting all night.

 

Reindeer Traps on Formokampen Mountain

Since I wasn’t able to post pictures on Friday, here are the pictures and a bit more commentary on the Formokampen Mountain hike. The Formakampen hike leaves from Putten Seter, only a 5 minute drive from the hotel.

In the beginning, you go through a stretch of very small birches most only about 4 feet high. Next you cross a marshy area where flat boulders have been placed so you can jump across without stepping in the marsh. There are a few slate bridges over a couple more marshy spots before you get to an elevation where it is very dry and the plants mostly resemble lichen (perhaps they are all lichen but we aren’t sure).

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Here is picture of Megan and Leon crossing a slate “bridge” before going up to the lichen area. The white you you can see scattering the hill above is lichen with many small white flowers all over.

The hike continues about 3.5 km before you get to the part where you climb to the top of the Formokampen Mountain seen here in the background behind Leon and Megan.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAbout midway up the mountain you come upon these trenches filled with rocks. It turns out that in the Middle Ages, wild reindeer were hunted by tricking them to run into these trenches (which were not filled with rocks back then). Once we got to the top, the views were amazing. The mountain is surrounded by large open areas on all sides and beyond that there are mountains all around. A circular steel disk on the top names all of the mountains in the corresponding section of the circle so that you can tell which mountain you are seeing.

Ancestral Initials and Rocky Priests

The internet is a bit faster this morning so I was able to get some of the pictures that I mentioned yesterday into the blog. Here is my Dad in 1971 and me yesterday, pointing at his father’s initials on a small building on the former family farm.

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And here is a picture of the geological formation that I mentioned in yesterday’s blog. The name of the site is Kvistskriuprestein — prestein is priest in Norwegian, and there is scholarly debate over whether the name means “Priests in white robes” or “Priests rising from an avalanche”. Regardless, there are now only 2 of the tall priests left (versus 10 in 2005). However, you can see some new ones starting to form under some of the other rocks. . They are considered quite a rare phenomena worldwide. It occurs when a stone on top of a very specific type of packed sedimentary  rock prevents the material beneath it from entirely eroding away but the surrounding areas that don’t have rocks on them get eroded away.

 

Øigardseter Fjellstue – no pics today!

Today we drove north of Oslo about 4.5 hours to Øigardseter Fjellstue, where my grandfather Hans Anderson Hove was born and lived until he emigrated to the United States around age 19. Fjellstue means “mountain inn” and indeed the old farm is now a hotel aimed at hikers in the summer and cross-country skiers in the winter. Until recently it was still owned by descendants of Hans Hove’s parents. However, we learned today that they sold it to the current owner 2 years ago.

The wifi here is really poor so I’m unable to upload any pictures to the blog today. So I’ll just write a bit about what we did and then put the photos and more description in tomorrow.

Before arriving at the hotel, we made 2 spur-of-the-moment stops to see roadside attractions. One was a traditional stavkirke (medieval Norwegian church) and one was a short but steep hike to see a geological phenomenon that is quickly eroding away. It’s hard to describe so you’ll have to either wait for tomorrow’s picture or look at this newspaper article published in Norway about it. Due to erosion, since that article, only 2 of the towers is left and the rest have fallen over. And if you look at that picture and think that maybe there is more of these to see if you wander around the site … no, this is it! We were a bit underwhelmed by it since no one had mentioned to us how limited it is. On the other hand it was right near the end of our 4 hour drive and it was a nice peaceful place to eat lunch … the area around the formation is thickly forested in birch and pine.

After that we checked in at the hotel and went on a nearby hike called Formokampen. At the end of the hike you reach the top of a mountain where you have 360 views and mountains all around. You can see pictures of the hike and the view here that are probably better than ours!

After that we came back to relax and have dinner and were excited to see a lunar eclipse that is visible only from Europe — however the high mountains here are blocking the moon. Also at 10:20pm (the time of the full eclipse) it was hardly dark at all. We’re in the time of the year in Norway where although the sun sets, it really never gets dark the entire night.

 

 

The Theme is The Scream

Today’s theme is The Scream because it unites all of our activities. First we went to the Akershus Fortress complex. There Barb almost screamed when one of the palace guards started his guard duty by marching straight at her and she realized she’d wandered into an area vaguely marked “Do not enter” in Norwegian. Then we went to the Oslo Opera House where lots of sopranos “scream” impressively in their nightly performances. Next up, we muscled past huge groups of Japanese tourists to get up close to the most famous painting in Norway — Edvard Munch’s “The Scream“. Lastly, due to the excessive heat, we went back to Drobak for a swim and screamed as we hit the cold water!

At right is the guard from Akershus as he patrolled the area where I was standing. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHe actually didn’t seem to be too concerned by my “infiltration” of their small grassy hill which contained a cannon pointed at a large shrub.

While we explored the rest of the grounds of the Akershus Fortress, I used a mobile app to learn about the sights. The poor translations made the descriptions particularly funny since we sometimes couldn’t even tell what they meant. For example:

“The tower completed in 1559 was originally called ‘The New Prevention Prevention’. “

“In 1628 the captain was taken away so that one could easily shoot the enemy. This proved to be a bad idea in the Norwegian climate. The roof was eroded and the crumb stored in the tower became wet.”

One reputation says that in the nights could see a headless disguised figure walking around.” [We were surprised that being headless wasn’t enough of a disguise.]

Watched from afar by the guard, Megan sat for a while in a shady area of the fortress and made a sketch of a nearby arched gate.

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Next we went to the Oslo Opera House (at left below). Its architecture is interesting because two sides are ramps which the public is free to walk up in order to get to the roof, where you can also walk around and get a view of the harbor. So of course we had to do it! You can see a reflection of Leon and Megan as they walk up the ramp. You can also see the reflection of a big cruise ship coming into the harbor.

img_20180726_1049495191Our next stop was the Oslo National Gallery. While it is not a large collection and focuses more on works by Norwegian artists, they also have works by artists such as Picasso, Gauguin, Degas, Berthe Morisot, a self-portrait by Van Gogh, some Greco-Roman sculptures, an Artemisia Gentileschi, some Dutch artists, the German artist Lucas Cranach, etc… But their biggest claim to fame is Munch’s The Scream, as well as a number of his most prominent other works. Side note: There is another museum in Oslo which is devoted exclusively to Munch (called the Munch Museum) and the first FAQ on their website is: “Q: We do NOT have The Scream. A: It is at the National Gallery.” which isn’t even a question but I guess they were sick of hearing the question.

Below is a picture by a Norwegian artist done in the late 1800s which reminded me of the pictures of my grandfather’s parents’s farm. The two pictures on the right are both famous Munch works — The Sick Child (his sister who died) and The Dance of Life showing the stages of a woman’s life in Munch’s opinion: Youth, Love, Melancholy. Overall, based on his pictures you can tell he was rather a depressed fellow.

 

After lunch we were in time to see the changing of the guards at the Royal Palace. First they march up the road — 4 mounted police, followed by a ~30 piece marching band, followed by about 16 guards. Then they proceed to do a number of ceremonial movements that seem to have no point, play some more songs and then rotate in the new guards for the old guards. In all, it took about 40 minutes and was fun to watch. Unlike at Buckingham Palace where you watch from behind a large gate, here they let you walk around the whole courtyard and they just have these stern looking fellows in green who prevent the crowd from getting too close.

It was 87 degrees out there today so even though we walked much further yesterday, we were hotter today just from standing in the sun and watching the changing of the guard. img_20180726_164017So we went back to the beach at Drobak where we’d waded the first day in order to swim for real. There was a nice breeze by the shore and the cold water was refreshing, but the highlight was this jelly fish — it was fun to look at but evidently their sting is quite bad so it made us a bit worried to swim too aggressively!